Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
